Harvest and le Sanglier

May 2013

We visited St Paul in the May of this year and it was the wettest, coldest spring in many a year, depending who you speak to, this is unprecedented it’s never been as cold and wet so late in the year. I certainly hope there is not a repeat performance as I have been guaranteed 300 days of sunshine in this region (not sure by who, probably the tourist board) and I may have to go all the way to the top to complain if this is not achieved. What I do know is the ski slopes were opened for the weekend when we were here in spring, so cold it was.

Whatever the facts and figures are concerning the weather it is definitely changing and certainly affected a lot of the harvesting.  One of the joys of the Roussillon is that a well managed vineyard can turn into timely and well managed harvest.  If you take the traditional grapes of the area (namely Muscat, Syrah, Grenache and Carignan) and they all behave properly you can harvest each one in turn as they ripen at differing times in more or less that order depending on vineyard location.  However, in the main that did not happen this year.  Harvest started more or less on time at in September but it was well into the latter weeks of October that the reds could even be considered for picking; they were just not ripe enough and then to top it off, they all ripened at once even the late-ripening Carignan.  So this made cellar management really tricky especially for the smaller producers and some long hours and frenetic days and nights were spent making sure all was on course.

In days gone by before mechanical harvesting the travelling pickers could literally start at the bottom of France and work they way north as the weather was consist and even moving in an orderly pattern but that is no longer the case.  In theory the hotter southern part of France should be harvested earlier than the northern cooler regions but this year this was certainly not so. The weather played havoc on all regions and some of the northern regions were done before their expected harvest date unlike these southern parts.  Global warming having its effect or an abnormal year? Only time will tell.

 

As to the grapes themselves as mentioned before 2013 is a harvest of quality but not quantity. In a whispered voice: I personally think that some of the reds may benefit from less grape sugar so we will not have the searing alcohol levels and possibly softer fuller fruity wines at less abv. For many traditional producers this is not what is wanted so I have to be careful to not upset them with my opinions.  From early observations I think this year will be remembered for the fresh, aromatic whites and roses and velvety, fruit driven, long lasting reds.  One producer is convinced their wines will be as good as 2010 if not better!

 

Many vineyards have electric fences around them to protect the crop from the le sanglier and  unlike the harvest it appears the sanglier population is booming!  We are constantly hearing the shots of the chasseur and wondering how we can get in on some of the action – not the shooting just the consuming. We had the privilege to be part of Mas Peyre 10^th Anniversary celebrations and it was our first big foray into the French community.  We were the only ‘l’anglais’ there but we were welcomed warmly and met some real characters.  Tables were laid out in the storage cellar and we were treated to a real feast, the highlight of which was the sanglier served with haricot, it was so delicious and we had the added bonus of the chasseur sitting at our table! (The one on the phone). That party went on well into the wee hours not for me though I came back to watch the Currie Cup Final! (Take the girl out of Africa.......)

 

I had been inquiring and even asked our charming chasseur at our table how to get hold of some le sanglier as this is not a bought and sold thing it’s all about who you know and hubby is not out there hunting yet!  I was resigned to maybe next year but the ever faithful Gigi came to our rescue once again and arrived with a rump of sanglier from her neighbour as a gift for us. I was overwhelmed by the generosity of total strangers but very grateful. It was sent with a recipe too because of course no l’anglais would know how to cook it properly.  There is a chance it might be sanglier for Christmas!

As the season changes and the wines settle the beauty of the region blossoms  to breath-taking magnificence. The autumn colours against the mountains and blue sky (in the main) is simply stunning and we are treated to the most perfect rainbows, clear and full with each colour defined, awesome in its truest sense. (Wish I could paint!) There is a definite shift in attitude and feeling as the colours ripen, the weather cools and the summer fruits disappear from the markets.  There is a sense of closure especially now as the kids return to school after their half term break, the pool needs to be shut down for winter, the logs need to be collected, mushrooms should be foraged.  It somehow seems quieter but content it was a good summer and now we can rest on the bounty of it, with quiet satisfaction; and with that sanglier in the freezer it just feels ‘right’ and that we are a little part of this wonderful land. A bientôt.